News
Internet acne education with automated counseling tested in clinical trial
An Internet-based acne education program that included automated counseling was not better than a standard educational website in improving acne severity and quality of life in adolescents, according to an article published online by JAMA Dermatology. Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that is prevalent among adolescents. Patient education is an important part of managing acne along with medication. However, the effect of patient education on clinical outcomes is not well characterized in dermatology publications. Researcher April W. Armstrong, M.D., M.P.H., of the University of Colorado, Aurora, and her coauthors developed an educational website on acne that incorporated automated online counseling to simulate face-to-face encounters. A standard educational website on acne was also developed for comparison. Both websites included suggestions on preventing acne, as well as information on medications and an anti-acne skin care routine. The authors suggest their results may be explained by lower-than expected use of the study websites. They note that “despite a lack of differential effect between websites, our results indicate that the automated-counseling website improved short-term skin care behaviors” .“Therefore, interactive Internet-based education may still carry the potential to improve long-term clinical factors, such as acne severity and quality of life. This conclusion is significant given the importance of discovering modern and novel techniques to deliver patient education in dermatology,” the study concludes.
media.jamanetwork.com
Sunburn: causes, treatments and prevention tips
Sunburn is the term for red, sometimes swollen and painful skin. It is caused by overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun. Sunburn can vary from mild to severe. The extent depends on skin type and amount of exposure to the sun. Sunburn is a serious risk factor for skin cancer and for sun damage. Because of variations in the intensity of UV radiation passing through the atmosphere, the risk of sunburn increases with proximity to the tropic latitudes. The higher the latitude, the lower the intensity of the UV rays. On a minute-by-minute basis, the amount of UV radiation is dependent on the angle of the sun. This is easily determined by the height ratio of any object to the size of its shadow. The greatest risk is at solar noon, when shadows are at their minimum and the sun's radiation passes more directly through the atmosphere. Regardless of one's latitude (assuming no other variables), equal shadow lengths mean equal amounts of UV radiation. The symptoms of sunburn vary from person to person. You may not notice redness of the skin for several hours after the burn has begun. Peak redness will take 12-24 hours. Minor sunburns typically cause nothing more than slight redness and tenderness to the affected areas. In more serious cases, blistering can occur. Extreme sunburns can be painful to the point of debilitation and may require hospital care. Commercial preparations are available that block UV light, known as sunscreens or sunblocks. They have a sunburn protection factor (SPF) rating, based on the sunblock's ability to suppress sunburn. Basically, the higher the SPF rating, the lower the amount of direct DNA damage. A sunscreen rated as SPF 10 blocks 90% of the sunburn-causing UVB radiation; an SPF20 rated sunscreen blocks 95%. Modern sunscreens contain filters for UVA radiation as well as UVB. Although UVA radiation does not cause sunburn, it does contribute to skin aging and an increased risk of skin cancer. Many sunscreens provide broad-spectrum protection, meaning that they protect against both UVA and UVB radiation. Research has shown that the best protection is achieved by application 15 to 30 minutes before exposure, followed by one reapplication 15 to 30 minutes after exposure begins. Further reapplication is only necessary after activities such as swimming, sweating, and rubbing.
www.medicalnewstoday.com
Research links psoriasis, depression
Psoriasis is a common skin condition that affects millions of Americans and it doesn’t just affect their skin. This disease can have a significant impact on quality of life. New research, presented at the American Academy of Dermatology’s 2015 Summer Academy Meeting in New York, indicates that psoriasis patients may have an increased risk of depression. Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory disease that typically involves the skin and joints. The majority of people diagnosed with the condition have plaque psoriasis, characterized by red, raised patches of skin covered with silvery-white scales. Using data from the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey, Dr. Ho and his colleagues studied cases of psoriasis and depression in a pool of 12,382 adult patients. About 16.5 percent of the psoriasis patients studied met the criteria for major depression, and the odds of having major depression were doubled among psoriasis patients. The association between the two conditions remained significant even when researchers adjusted for other risk factors, including age, gender, race, body mass index, physical activity, history of alcohol use and smoking, and history of other conditions like myocardial infarction, stroke and diabetes mellitus. Dr. Ho believes the connection between psoriasis and depression may be linked to the public’s stigmatization of psoriasis. The condition is highly visible on the skin, especially in the summer months when more skin is exposed, he says, and those who are unfamiliar with the disease may react unfavorably to people who have it. “The public should know that psoriasis is not contagious, so there is no need to act differently around psoriasis patients than you would around anyone else,” Dr. Ho says. Dr. Ho initially expected that patients’ likelihood of depression would be linked to the severity of their psoriasis, but his research indicated that this is not the case. “It seems that it really depends on the patients’ view of themselves, rather than the extent of their psoriasis,” he says. “Psoriasis has far-reaching implications for patients’ physical and mental health, and that can include an increased risk of depression,” Dr. Ho says. “I encourage all psoriasis patients to see a board-certified dermatologist for treatment, which may help improve their quality of life”.
www.aad.org
"Hidden" fragrance compound can cause contact allergy
Linalyl acetate, a fragrance chemical that is one of the main constituents of the essential oil of lavender, is not on the list of allergenic compounds pursuant to the EU Cosmetics Directive. Thus, it does not need to be declared on cosmetic products sold within the EU. Recent studies at the University of Gothenburg have shown that linalyl acetate can cause allergic eczema. In accordance with the EU Cosmetics Directive, makeup, ointments, shampoo, deodorants, toothpaste and other products must contain a declaration of ingredients in order for consumers to avoid the substances to which they are allergic. Cause of contact allergy Linalyl acetate, a fragrance chemical, is an exception -- it is not listed in the directive and does not have to appear in declarations of ingredients. The substance is mildly allergenic. New studies at Sahlgrenska Academy have found that it can react with oxygen in the air to form strongly allergenic hydroperoxides. Thus, linalyl acetate may be a common cause of contact allergy. Allergic reactions: the study included 1,717 subjects who were being assessed for eczema related to contact allergy. Approximately 2 percent of them had allergic reactions to oxidized linalyl acetate'. That may seem like a small percentage,' says Lina Hagvall, a researcher at the University of Gothenburg. 'But it is approximately the same result as for the fragrance compounds listed in the Cosmetics Directive”. Broad range of tests: the subjects who reacted to oxidized linalyl acetate were also exposed to other fragrance compounds that are part of routine testing these days. A total of 57 percent of them had no allergic reaction”. The trials suggest that a broad range of tests is required to detect contact allergies to fragrance compounds,' Dr. Hagvall says. 'Current tests do not identify the majority of people who have contact allergy to oxidized linalyl acetate”. Hard to avoid: because the substance is not declared on cosmetic products, consumers have trouble avoiding it, which can turn allergic eczema into a more severe, long-term condition. According to the researchers, the study findings should lead to inclusion of oxidized linalyl acetate among the fragrance compounds used for diagnosis of contact allergy. The substance should also appear in the declaration of ingredients for cosmetic products.
www.gu.se
Researchers identify drug candidate for skin, hair regeneration among scarred victims of burns and trauma
Johns Hopkins researchers have identified a novel cell signaling pathway in mice through which mammals — presumably including people — can regenerate hair follicles and skin while healing from wounds. The discovery, summarized in an article published Aug. 6 in the journal Cell Stem Cell, could, they say, eventually help spur the growth of new hair, skin or other organ tissue in scarred victims of burns and other injuries. Our study “uncovers a novel role for a protein that works as a master regulator of regeneration in the skin,” says senior study author Luis A. Garza, M.D., Ph.D., associate professor of dermatology at the Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine. “Medications that turn on this protein have the powerful potential to decrease scarring as healing of wounds takes place, thereby promoting skin and hair follicle regeneration”. Garza says his team’s work is based on the knowledge that damaged skin releases double-stranded RNA (dsRNA) — genetic information normally carried by some viruses — that is sensed by a protein called toll-like receptor 3 (TLR3). TLR3, which in other contexts plays a fundamental role in recognizing some disease-causing organisms and activating the immune system, during wounding also activates the genes IL6 and STAT3 to promote hair follicle regeneration. TLR3 also activates other molecules involved in hair development, including the Wnt and Shh signaling pathways and a gene called EDAR, which makes the protein ectodysplasin and plays an important role in skin development. “A lot of human disability is from scarring,” Garza says. “After a heart attack, we’re really good at replacing the blood flow, but it’s the scar on the heart afterward that’s the real problem. We and others in the field of regenerative medicine are interested in how to enhance or trigger regeneration in such situations”. For the study, Garza and colleagues compared the protein expression of certain genes in healed wounds in two groups of mice. One group was genetically proficient in wound-induced hair neogenesis, a process in mice and rabbits in which skin and hair follicles regenerate after wounds. The other inbred group of mice was noted to lack this ability. Expression of TLR3 was three times higher in the mice that were better able to regenerate hair. The clinical translation of this work is promising because work has already started, says Garza. Drug companies are already developing products to activate TLR3 to trigger the immune system, and these same products could be tested to promote regeneration. But Garza cautions that clinical applications of the team’s discoveries must await many more experiments and the development and testing of drugs that target the pathway they uncovered. He also made clear that the information might not be as applicable to conditions unrelated to scarring or to those whose hair follicles are lost from male pattern baldness.
Millions of plastic particles found in cosmetic products
Everyday cosmetic and cleaning products contain huge quantities of plastic particles, which are released to the environment and could be harmful to marine life, according to a new study. Research at Plymouth University has shown almost 100,000 tiny ‘microbeads’ – each a fraction of a millimetre in diameter – could be released in every single application of certain products, such as facial scrubs. The particles are incorporated as bulking agents and abrasives, and because of their small size it is expected many will not be intercepted by conventional sewage treatment, and are so released into rivers and oceans. Researchers, writing in Marine Pollution Bulletin, estimate this could result in up to 80 tonnes of unnecessary microplastic waste entering the sea every year from use of these cosmetics in the UK alone. The latest study was led by PhD student Imogen Napper, together with Professor of Marine Biology Richard Thompson, Professor of Organic Geochemistry Steve Rowland and Postdoctoral Researcher of Analytical Chemistry, Dr Adil Bakir Imogen said: “As the study unfolded I was really shocked to see the quantity of microplastics apparent in these everyday cosmetics. Currently, there are reported to be 80 facial scrubs in the UK market which contain plastic material, however some companies have indicated they will voluntarily phase them out from their products. In the meantime, there is very little the consumer can do to prevent this source of pollution”. Subsequent analysis using electron microscopy showed that each 150ml of the products could contain between 137,000 and 2.8million microparticles. Professor Richard Thompson, who has been studying the effects of litter in the marine environment for over 20 years, said: “Using these products leads to unnecessary contamination of the oceans with millions of microplastic particles. There is considerable concern about the accumulation of microplastics in the environment; our previous work has shown microplastics can be ingested by fish and shellfish and there is evidence from laboratory studies of adverse effects on marine organisms”.
MORE RHEOLOGY, LESS EFFORT. MALVERN INSTRUMENTS LAUNCHES A NEW AND IMPROVED RSOLUTION PLATFORM FOR FASTER, MORE EFFECTIVE FORMULATION AND TROUBLESHOOTING
Malvern Instruments has launched a new and improved rSolution platform on their Kinexus rotational rheometer to help customers use rheological measurements more effectively - to accelerate formulation studies, improve the effectiveness of troubleshooting, and ensure robust QC. rSolution makes it easier for all users – both expert and novice – to measure relevant rheology that provides valuable insight into product and process performance. rSolution is delivered in the latest release of the rSpace software (version 1.70) for Kinexus, Malvern’s flagship rotational rheometer. It incorporates significant technological innovations that enable optimal flexibility in rheological test capabilities and protocols to directly meet industrial requirements for rheological testing. The Kinexus approach of “more rheology, less effort” allows users to work at a level most appropriate to them, while utilizing new and improved sequences that deliver relevant data for the application of interest. Malvern’s cornerstone Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) approach to material testing has been enhanced in the new software to revolutionize and simplify user interaction. rSolution delivers ‘expert system’ guidance and SOP driven testing to rheological measurements for the first time simultaneously educating the user. It incorporates fully customizable test designs to enable researchers to set-up and execute the best test for commonly encountered problem that can be efficiently solved through the application of rheology. Built in intelligence and guidance features provide support through every aspect of the measurement process: through sample loading, measurement, analysis and result interpretation. Dedicated tests can benchmark performance and material properties in relation to texture, spreading behaviour, yield stress and product delivery characteristics. A variety of measurement geometries are available and fully optimized for the rheological characterization of a wide range of complex fluids and soft solids including dispersions, emulsions, polymer and surfactant solutions as well as pastes and gels. The Kinexus advanced axial capabilities also facilitate the utilization of specific sequences for the assessment of tack and adhesion. An extended set of Asphalt test sequences further support and enhance the capabilities for Asphalt and Bitumen testing using the new Kinexus DSR platform.
http://www.malvern.com/en/products/product-range/kinexus-range/default.aspx
NEW PRODUCT CONCEPTS FOR LIGHT AND LIGHTENING PRODUCTS
Dr. Straetmans GmbH is going to introduce an emulsifier for low viscous O/W-emulsions and one active material. The second generation for low viscous emulsions is introduced with Dermofeel easymuls plus, this single emulsifier is the perfect suit for sprayable concepts with a light skin feel. A further advantage of this raw material is the applicability in cold production, making it economic and easy to use. The other extension of the portfolio is Dermofeel enlight – a natural effective whitening active material. This blend is based on phytic acid and mulberry extract with in vivo proven activity. It is especially suitable for natural age spot correction applications and skin lightening products.
LUBRIZOL INTRODUCES AVALURE(TM) FLEX-6 POLYMER
The Lubrizol Corporation announces the launch of Avalure(TM) Flex-6 Polymer, a new multi-benefit solution for the skin care market. Designed to meet the consumer needs for better hiding power and wear in make-up as well as more uniform coverage, protection and water resistance in sun care and daily skin care products, Avalure Flex-6 polymer offers unique functions such as: Emulsion stabilization - Pigment dispersion - Film formation - Rheology modification.
Avalure Flex-6 polymer does all of this without compromising the sensory quality of the product. Key Benefits of Avalure(TM) Flex-6 Polymer: -Consistent thickening efficiency across a wide pH range (pH 3-10) and in the presence of some electrolytes, offering the possibility of developing high performance commercial products; -Compatibility with high levels of metal oxide pigments, enabling O/W challenging formulations in daily skin care, sun care, colour cosmetic and baby care (diaper creams); -Unique sensory profile: soft, powdery after feel with comfort. This new polymer has a very positive impact on the emulsion sensory with its silicone-like after feel; -Efficient film formation at low use level (1 wt%), allowing for more uniform coverage. In sun protection products it helps to spread the UV filters more evenly on the skin and to cover them under a layer of polymer film, resulting in enhanced water-resistance and improved sun protection with a matte, soft and non-greasy after feel; -Its HLB independent emulsification properties (including silicone oils), multifunctionality and ease-of-use (easy-to-disperse and cold processable), enable savings through simplification of formulation (fewer ingredients needed) and manufacturing processes; -Transfer-resistance and water-resistance in colour cosmetic applications resulting in a long-lasting beautifying effect. Every step of the way, Lubrizol walks hand-in-hand with customers through the process of turning their ideas into reality by offering them innovative technologies, an overview of the and fast service.
www.lubrizol.com
COUNTERFEIT COSMETICS PRODUCTS
Every year the cosmetics industry suffers from multi-billion dollar losses due to counterfeit cosmetics products. This lost revenue may have a negative impact on market share, and can result in a further erosion of sales. If the counterfeit products cause health problems in consumers, this can damage the reputation and brand image for the manufacturers of the authentic cosmetics. Early and rapid detection of counterfeit products is one way to address counterfeiting in both domestic and export markets. Highlighted in this work is a multivariate analysis technique for sample comparison using statistical analysis tools for easy comparison between complex samples. The described LC-MS and informatics workflow as implemented with the UNIFI Scientific Information System using high-resolution mass spectrometry can be adopted for cosmetics, food and beverage, and pharmaceutical sample analysis.
http://www.waters.com/webassets/cms/library/docs/720005402en.pdf
KAO SELECTED BY THE DOW JONES SUSTAINABILITY WORLD INDEX FOR THE SECOND CONSECUTIVE YEAR
Kao Corporation has been selected for inclusion in the 2015 Dow Jones Sustainability World Index (DJSI) for the second consecutive year, among the world's most renowned socially responsible investment (SRI) indices. Kao was also selected as one of 24 Industry Group Leaders in total, with the top score in the Household & Personal Products Group. The Dow Jones Sustainability Indices are offered cooperatively by S&P Dow Jones Indices LLC in the United States and RobecoSAM AG in Switzerland to evaluate the performance of the world's leading companies in terms of economic, environmental and social criteria. Each year, about 2,500 companies in 59 industries are evaluated, and only 10 percent of these companies are named to DJSI World. This year, 317 companies were selected for inclusion in the World index, 20 companies of which are headquartered in Japan. One company is named Industry Leader for each of the 59 industries and one is also selected as Industry Group Leader from within each of 24 industry groups that represent all 59 industries. Within the Personal Products Industry, Kao received top marks for economic initiatives including its strategic innovation management in producing high-value-added products and supply chain management, environmental initiatives such as reducing its environmental impact through Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and package development based on the 4Rs (Reduce, Renewable, Reuse, and Recycle), and social initiatives such as human capital development and corporate citizenship activities. Supported by recognition such as inclusion in the DJ Sustainability Indices, the Kao Group will continue to work toward achievement of a sustainable society.
www.kao.com
OXITENO’S PAINTS & COATINGS TEAM IS A FINALIST FOR THE SUVINIL INNOVATION AWARD
Suvinil created the Suvinil Innovation Award to encourage students and suppliers to participate in its innovation process and aggregate more value to its products. In 2015, 54 projects were submitted by students and 9 by suppliers. All of the projects underwent a three-step evaluation process prior to the awards ceremony. They were evaluated based on weighted-average criteria that considered innovation, potential for application, competitive advantage and sustainability. The judging committee evaluated the projects and solutions in the context of the theme ‘Homes and stores of the future’, considering the following pillars for sustainable development: environment, social and economic. Oxiteno’s Paints & Coatings area was a finalist for the award. This year, Oxiteno presented the project “Combining sustainability, performance and cost in a new coalescing agent”. The goal of the project is to develop a more sustainable coalescent that is easy to use, has an excellent cost benefit relationship, high-performance, low odour and respects the restrictions imposed by environmental legislation on minimum VOC levels. VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) are extremely important to the Paints & Coatings sector. Currently, a number of different environmental laws are designed to reduce the maximum levels of volatile organic compounds allowed in paint formulations. The goal is to minimize the impact on the environment and people’s health. The awards ceremony was held on Friday, August 21, 2015, at MuBE – the Brazilian Sculpture Museum.
SOLVAY AND L’ORÉAL TEAM UP TO PROMOTE SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES AMONG GUAR BEAN FARMERS IN INDIA
Solvay and L’Oréal have teamed up in a scalable three-year project to teach and promote sustainable agricultural practices among 1,500 guar bean farmers across ten villages in India’s desert region of Bikaner, Rajasthan state. Solvay is a world leader in guar derivatives and supplies its customers who formulate these ingredients in a variety of applications such as in food, cosmetics, oil & gas extraction and textile industries. Grown mainly in India’s semi-arid regions, guar is the main resource for many farming communities but its production is volatile as it relies on monsoon rains. Solvay’s “Sustainable Guar Initiative” aims to empower countless farmers with the tools and knowledge to cultivate the crop through good agricultural practices, resulting in more continuous, high-yield production. Solvay’s Novecare Global Business Unit (GBU) in 2013 launched the initiative, which is also implemented by non-governmental organization TechnoServe, as part of the Group’s sustainable development strategy Solvay Way. “Solvay’s initiative and partnership with L’Oréal, acting as a founding member, brings many benefits –for farmer communities, their environment as well as for demanding industrial applications. The project will help farmers improve the use of water and preserve the soil, it will raise their income and support local communities” said Emmanuel Butstraen, President of Solvay Novecare and sponsor of the “Sustainable Guar Initiative”. “Our approach will also reinforce the availability of bio-based guar for industries and allow them to promote their ambitious sustainability goals”. “Our partnership with Solvay is a concrete implementation of our “Sharing Beauty with All” sustainability commitment. By improving yields while promoting a suitable model of sustainable agriculture, we will improve the livelihood of farmers and protect local resources such as water, soil and biodiversity. This program will allow ensuring a durability of income for guar bean farmers while considering the impact of climate change into their activities” said Laurent Gilbert, Director for International Development of Advanced Research at L’Oréal.
INNOVATIONS MADE BY LUM
LUM is presenting the ultimate instrument solution for the comprehensive physical characterization of formulations in the laboratory, the combination of the Multi-wavelength All-in-One-Dispersion Analyser LUMiSizer® 651 and the brand-new LUMiReader® X-Ray. Giving hydrodynamic particle density, separation velocity distribution and particle size distribution in addition to the direct stability result, the LUMiSizer® 651 permits in an easy way the analysis and evaluation of complex industrial products. Customers in Home and Personal Care industry benefit from significantly more applications compared to the well-known Stability Analyser LUMiFuge® or the NIR- (Near Infrared)-LUMiSizer®. High concentrated formulations as well as low concentrated suspensions and emulsions, featuring different optical properties, can be measured with this new development in just one analyser, in an effective and cost-saving manner. Applying the unique patented STEP-Technology® and the direct physical acceleration of the separation, comparative or predictive shelf-life analysis of original dispersions according to ISO/TR 13097 is permitted within a short time. Particle size distributions are determined according to ISO 13318. LUMiReader® X-Ray based on the same STEP-Technology® allows for real-time separation and consolidation fingerprinting using X-ray transmission. The in-situ visualisation of changes in homogeneity and sedimentation are especially important in HPC products like inorganic pigment based sun care and nail polish.
www.lum-gmbh.com
SABINSA’ CONTRIBUTE
Dr. Muhammed Majeed, Founder of the Sabinsa Corporation and Anurag Pande, PhD VP Scientific Affairs, Sabinsa Corporation, contributed two chapters to Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9th Edition, updated by Editor-In-Chief Meyer R. Rosen, FRSC, FAIC. This three volume technical handbook, published by the Chemical Publishing Company, covers essential fundamentals, advanced and pioneering areas of cosmetics, and personal care science and technology. At over 2,600 pages, this three-volume handbook, also available as a fully searchable eBook, draws on current expertise from industry, academia and the dermatological profession. It has also been designed for use as a textbook for Universities and Cosmetic Societies around the world. UCLA has accepted Harry’s 9th Edition as its Master text for Cosmetic Science education in the graduate division. Covering every technical aspect of cosmetic formulation, development, testing, and regulation, Harry’s Cosmeticology is relied upon by the majority of experts in the cosmetics development and manufacturing field. Dr. Majeed and Dr. Pande contributed articles include Multi-Functional Botanicals for Topical Applications in which they discusses key elements involved in developing botanicals as cosmeceuticals, and Multi-Functional Botanicals for Nutricosmetics Applications which discusses the Nutricosmetic potential of selected botanicals, their activities and the formulation of concepts using them.
www.sabinsa.com
