RICCARDO DELISI, MARIO PAGLIARO, ROSARIA CIRIMINNA*
*Corresponding author
Istituto per lo Studio dei Materiali Nanostrutturati, CNR,
via U. La Malfa 153, 90146, Palermo, Italy

Abstract

Urged by the global demand of safe and natural ingredients, the fragrance industry is undertaking profound changes. This study investigates the origins of change, and speculates on the direction that will lead to massive diffusion of safe fragrance ingredients based both on natural fragrant molecules as well as on microencapsulated fragrances that, we argue in conclusion, will be widely used in the cosmetic, cosmeceutical and personal care industries.

INTRODUCTION

Sustainability has become a central business topic in the fragrance industry, namely one of the world’s wealthiest and oldest, with 2014 revenues exceeding $13 billion, estimated above $17 billion by 2017 (with more than 5% annual growth) (1).
The 2016 World Perfumery Congress conference program, for instance, will focus on the theme “Scents & Sustainability:
A Responsible Future for Fragrance” (2).

The reason for this shift is simple: consumers wish to buy naturally derived fragrances widely perceived as beneficial to health, avoiding synthetic ingredients which, among other adverse health effects, are often allergenic.

Fragrances are small volatile molecules with pleasant scent widely used in cosmetic, personal and home care products (3), adding scent to human body and living spaces, providing favorable effect on our emotional perception (4). The word perfume derives from “per fumum” (Latin for “through smoke”), as Romans learned that by throwing flowers, leaves, and aromatic resins onto burning coals, all these botanical species released their scents.
Starting with Persians, Ind ...