To meet an increasing consumer demand for natural color cosmetics and sunscreens, Gattefossé has risen to the challenge and will present a new ingredient at in-cosmetics global in Paris. Gattefossé has applied its strong knowledge in lipid chemistry to the development of Emulium® Illustro, an innovative water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier of natural origin, designed principally for pigmented formulations. Using a patented technology based upon polyglycerol esters, Emulium® Illustro meets consumer expectations and formulator requirements for performance and flexibility.
Naturality without compromise
Emulium® Illustro demonstrates superior performance and stability compared to other W/O emulsifiers on the market. Flexible, easy to use and suitable for cold processing, this new ingredient enables the formulation of fluid textures that are comfortable to wear and bring a soft and hydrated feel to the skin. Of particular interest in color and sunscreen formulations, Emulium® Illustro can also be used to formulate innovative textures for skincare.
“We have been working for six years to find a composition that provides a concrete solution to natural W/O emulsion issues. We have carefully selected three raw materials that are reacted together by esterification and interesterification. The association of a low freeglycerol grade of polyglycerol-6, 12-hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid allow us to obtain a supple structure that stabilizes without need for a co-emulsifier. The insaturated chain brings fluidity to the final emulsion and gives textures that present easy spreading capacity.”
Maxime Nollet, research scientist specialized in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé
“Guided by color formulation experts, we have placed pigments at the heart of the research from day one. The emulsions were constructed around pigments, taking into consideration different types of coating as well as uncoated materials. We have performed many tests with Emulium® Illustro to explore it from every angle: compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, stability, sensoriality and clinical evaluation. We have also developed many formulations to demonstrate its interest in make-up, suncare and skincare. Our fully natural foundation was evaluated in a consumer test on a panel composed of habitual users of silicone foundations. The panelists were thrilled by both the performance of the natural foundation and the appearance of their skin after use. This is the best reward we could have hoped for.”
Malorie Duvent, formulation scientist at Gattefossé
Emulium® Illustro will be presented at in-cosmetics global in Paris on April 2d to 4th on Gattefossé booth H80.
