Lubrizol Life Science Beauty today announced the results of new data for Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient ‒ a botanical extract rich in an acid protease that mimics the effect of endogenous cathepsin D to produce a controlled and effective desquamation, without side effects.
For skin to maintain its glowing appearance, it goes through a natural process of renewal called desquamation. In desquamation, the skin cells go through a complete life cycle – from the base layer of the epidermis to the skin cells maturing and eventually flaking off at the surface. When this process doesn’t happen fully, dead skin cells can remain on the skin, making the skin look rough and dull.
Besides the typical aging signs, skin dullness is an increasing concern for consumers, especially those with darker skin types. Radiance and a smooth and even complexion are important for a youthful appearance. In vivo efficacy testing with Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient was conducted on volunteers with darker complexions. Participants reported visible lightening effects and that their skin appeared more luminous.
It has been demonstrated that when used in skin care formulations, Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient mimics the skin’s own desquamating enzymes. Previous studies have shown that Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient is a mild exfoliating ingredient that confers gentle cell turnover, compared to AHAs. For the first time, we have identified, in vitro, that the activity of the ingredient is highly specific to the conditions of the surface of the skin and its activity can be modulated by dosage and time to give a range of exfoliating effects.
Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient can be used in exfoliating products, from rinse-off masks to leave-on daily creams, without side effects. It has been shown to have reduced sensitivity and barrier disruption compared to lactic acid.