Melanin gives some natural protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation, however, excessive production of melanin causes skin hyperpigmentation. Depigmenting cosmetics can be used to control this process, however, depigmenting agents commonly used have some disadvantages, such as low bioavailability, photosensitization, cellular toxicity, and insolubility. Natural sources of melanogenic inhibitors have become important alternatives to synthetic ones. The objective of this review was to summarise the results of studies on natural extracts that have been reported in the literature to inhibit the process of melanogenesis, giving a view on their suitability for potential use in new cosmetic formulations for skin-lightening.

All evaluated natural agents demonstrated anti-tyrosinase effect. The species Leathesia difformis, Morus alba, Orostachys japonicus, Heracleum moellendorffii, Coix lacryma-jobi (adlay), Inula brittanica, and Gailardia aristata stood out from the others due to their application as potential inhibitors of more than three proteins related to melanogenesis, including the cyclic adenosine monophosphate response element-binding protein (CREB), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT).

CONCLUSIONS

The plants present an anti-tyrosinase effect that must be better explored in the new cosmetic formulations. The anti-melanogenic effects of the plant are mainly related to presence of phenolic and antioxidant compounds.