KARINE KROSS MAITA*, STEPHAN DOHMEN, ESTHER KÜSTERS, ANNETTE MEHLING
*Corresponding author
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Monheim am Rhein, Germany

Abstract

Cosmetics manufacturers are seeking ingredients that enable environmentally and ethically responsible product profiles, while still delivering measurable positive performance. A new bio-based anionic surfactant made from renewable soy protein is enabling them to meet these expectations. This alternative to traditional solutions that contain sulphate or ethylene oxide derivatives is of 100 percent natural origin and is suitable for formulations that are labelled cruelty free. Tests have shown its excellent mildness, as well as its potential to repair hair damage and strengthen hair. This creates significant opportunities for rinse-off products that are marketed as sustainable (1).

A NEW BIO-BASED SURFACTANT MEETING IMPORTANT SUSTAINABILITY CRITERIA
Changing consumer expectations are driving innovation in the cosmetics industry. There are increasing preferences for products that support self-care and that are aligned with an eco-conscious lifestyle. Overall, this trend is often referred to as “natural beauty”. Today, this is far more than a niche market. In Europe, the number of products that are launched featuring a claim that they are more than 90% natural combined with an additional claim that they are alternatives to sulphates and/or COSMOS certified is growing extremely fast (2).
At the same time, consumers expect natural beauty products to deliver proven results in terms of caring for hair and skin. This may include mild formulations that offer a gentler experience. Similarly, consumers look for sustainable products that can repair or strengthen hair.

In 2022, a new surfactant was launched that can enable manufacturers to meet this consumer demand for environmentally and ethically responsible cosmetic products that have a measurable positive impact on self-care. Its INCI name is Potassium Coco ...