FRANCESCA MORGANTE
RSPO, Bologna, Italy

Abstract

It is estimated that at least 70% of all cosmetics contain palm kernel oil or palm kernel derivatives. This means that even if a company uses small volumes of palm oil or palm kernel in their products, every single cosmetic company has an opportunity and a responsibility to generate demand for sustainable palm oil derivatives and abandon the use of unsustainable palm oil. Substantial progress has been made in the oleochemicals supply chain, leading to a wide range of personal care ingredients being widely available as RSPO certified to the Mass Balance model. As demand for certified products continues to increase, production systems will also change and adapt to the request creating a positive impact for people and planet. When choosing sustainable palm oil derivatives, companies demonstrate commitment towards a bigger cause: ending deforestation and use of fire, improving the livelihood of millions of small-scale farmers in producing countries, and ensuring labour and communities’ rights are upheld.

It is estimated that at least 70% of all cosmetics contain palm kernel oil or palm kernel derivatives. Shampoos, detergents, toothpaste but also decorative cosmetics like lipsticks and mascaras may contain ingredients which originated from one of the two parts of the tropical crop. A considerably higher usage comes from palm kernel oil: 70% of global palm kernel oil consumption and 8% of global palm oil consumption is used for oleochemical manufacture.

Palm kernel oil derivatives can take endless names, it’s estimated that there are hundreds of different derivatives and the oleochemical supply chain of these oils is one of the most complex worldwide. The majority of them would be surfactants, emulsifiers, and humectants.

One of the main drivers to include palm oil derivatives in cosmetics was due to consumer demand for products containing less synthetic ingredients, resulting in a reformulation from petroleum based ingredients to plant based ingredients. The cosmetic sector has, and still, experiences the impact of consumer preference towards what has been called by many as the “clean beauty” movement. The word “clean” can ...