MARK SMITH
The International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association (NATRUE), Brussels, Belgium

Abstract

The “clean beauty” trend, often synonymous with so-called ‘free from’ claims, is commonly associated with safety. The fact that ‘clean’ as a claim is undefined has not meant consumers limit their expectations of ‘clean’ to just a few ingredients since ‘clean’ can extend to brand policies centred around sustainability and ethics as well. Very recently some of the core aspects of ‘clean beauty’ have been indirectly introduced into the EU regulatory sphere by way of the Chemical Strategy for Sustainability (CSS), which aims to better protect human health and the environment as well as boost innovation for safe and sustainable chemicals. Various initiatives and strategies connected to the CSS are already underway including cosmetics.

ORIGIN, DEFINITION AND SCOPE
Before it was appropriated to cosmetic products, ingredients and practices, the concept of ‘clean’ can be traced back to the food sector. For food, ‘clean’ denotes improved health and well-being; for example, through eating simpler, plant-based diets, and avoiding processed foods and certain ingredients, like additives. Whilst one cannot transpose all these to cosmetics, the general themes, like focusing on natural raw materials and avoidance of certain substances, have been noted drivers for consumers for some years now.

The “clean beauty” movement has raised concerns over safety. Traditionally, although consumers may have once simply avoided synthetic ingredients based upon a perception that they were ‘less safe’ than natural substances, in the last decade or so increased consumer scrutiny has impacted the entire cosmetics industry, including the natural sector and its choice of raw materials. To this extent, any substances’ safety record and its impact on human health can be placed under the spotlight.

Safety assessment is effectively a legal licence to operate ...