ALEXANDER THIEMANN, JESSICA SCHOLZE, SILVANA ESTARITA, KURT DIEKER
Dr. Straetmans GmbH, Merkurring 90, 22143 Hamburg, Germany

Abstract

Hair care cosmetic formulators permanently strive for new conditioners which allow them to satisfy the diverse demands of the growing natural cosmetic market. In response to these demands dermofeel^® quadegra, a liquid, preservative-free conditioner, which combines performance and easy handling with environmental friendliness has been developed. dermofeel^® quadegra conditioning agent is natural-derived from chemically modified potato-starch and is easily and also cost-effectively applicable in a variety of formulations, like shampoos, shower gels and sprays. dermofeel^® quadegra stands for low moisture pick up and a substantive but at the same time removable conditioning film. These characteristics offer formulators a unique balance between instant conditioning performance and hair style manageability.
In this study we report dermofeel^® quadegra´s biodegradability, aquatic toxicity and performance and make extensive comparisons to benchmark conditioners of petrochemical, as well as natural origin.

INTRODUCTION

In the last couple of years consumers and producers of cosmetic products increasingly targeted their focus on questions regarding the environment. This trend is reflected in growing market numbers worldwide and in an increasing range of natural and sustainable cosmetic raw materials implemented in personal care products. In Germany, the largest natural cosmetic market in Europe, total sales of natural cosmetic products increased in 2012 by 5.5 percent, claiming a total share of 6.8 percent of the cosmetic market (1). Worldwide in 2011, according to the Kline Group, natural cosmetics and natural personal care products were estimated to account for 25 billion USD of the market (2) with a double digit growth between 2005 to 2010 (3).
This global market growth is expected to continue and thereby emphasizes the need for cosmetics producers to position their product lines adequately in this innovative and promising market segment.

In addition to the performance and the natural origin of a cosmetic raw material, producers also begin to consider its ecological footprint. For hair care products, which are released to the aquatic envir ...