ANDREA MITAROTONDA
Consultant in Cosmetic Formulation Chemistry, United Kingdom

Abstract

Described as a 5-in-1 cream working as a cream, eye cream, pack, lifting treatment and makeup primer, this product essentially features a rather simple formula consisting of a main emollient (Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil) dispersed in water and stabilised by mean of hydrophobically modified acrylic-based polymers. The quick breaking properties of such polymers confer a light and watery texture. The polymers used are Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.

Described as a 5-in-1 cream working as a cream, eye cream, pack, lifting treatment and makeup primer, this product essentially features a rather simple formula consisting of a main emollient (Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil) dispersed in water and stabilised by mean of hydrophobically modified acrylic-based polymers.

The quick breaking properties of such polymers confer a light and watery texture.

The polymers used are Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.

The former is normally dispersed in a liquid carrier (Squalane in this case) and stabilised by both an oil-in-water and a water-in-oil emulsifiers such as Polysorbate 60 and Sorbitan Isostearate.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a copolymer of sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate and acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers.

It works by the so called Hydro Swelling Droplet mechanism: the polymer is pre-neutralised (it is, in fact, a Sodium salt) and it will immediately swell once in contact with water. The polymer chain will then uncoil providing viscosity and stabilisation.

The latter ...