TONY O’LENICK^1*, THOMAS O’LENICK²
*Corresponding author
1. Nascent Technologies Corporation, Lawrenceville Ga, USA                 
2. SurfaTech Corporation, Lawrenceville Ga, USA

Abstract

Functional formulation (FF) is an approach to product development that allows the personal care formulator the ability to provide products that have consumer perceptible differences that meet a market need. The process involves identifying the function of all ingredients in the formulation, then making minimal changes to the formulation with maximized benefit. Sunscreen formulations can look simple on paper, as they typically contain a short list of ingredients, however, they are far from simple. Each ingredient has a specific function and must interact with other ingredients without effecting efficacy. In this paper, we identify the ingredients’ function and change them to satisfy current market needs.

INTRODUCTION

Over the past several years, there has been a growing restriction on sunscreen formulations around the world. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) reported that the majority of sunscreens sold in the United States of America contain chemicals that are deemed harmful to the environment (1). This has led to the banning of specific sunscreen actives in Hawaii (2). There are two major ingredients in sunscreen formulations: Active ingredients and inactive ingredients. Active ingredients are considered Over The Counter Drugs (OTC) and regulated by the FDA. Consequently, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services Food and Drug Administration Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER) has published a compliance manual in 2018 (3).  Inactive ingredients, on the other hand, are classified as cosmetics and not regulated by the FDA. As new consumer needs arise, sunscreen formulators have the freedom to modify the inactive ingredients, but are severely limited to the active ingredients that they can change. The special requirements of obtaining the desired SPF (Sun Protection Factor) using monograph ...