ESTELLE LOING¹*, MAGALI BOREL²
*Corresponding author
1. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité, 2600 boulevard Laurier, bureau 900, Québec (Québec), G1V 4W2, Canada
2. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, ZA les Belles Fontaines, 99 route de Versailles – 91160 Champlan, France

Abstract

Infrared radiation has the potential to precipitate skin ageing and photoageing, a phenomenon that we propose calling “Infra’Ageing™”. New efficient cosmetic actives are needed to counteract the newly characterized IR effects. The present paper introduces Elix-IR™, a cathepsin G inhibitor derived from the wild plant Polygonum aviculare that prevents IR and UV effects on skin.

INRODUCTION TO INFRA’AGEING™

Infrared radiation
The term photoageing first emerged in the field of dermatology in the 80s, in link with the work of Dr. Kligman (1). It refers to premature skin ageing resulting from chronic exposure to the sun. Putting a name on things is a way of bringing them into focus and an important step towards understanding any phenomena. In line with this view, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics recently coined the term Infra’Ageing™ to describe the aspect of photoageing more specifically related to infrared radiation (IR).
IR is the part of the electromagnetic solar spectrum that falls beyond the visible range but below microwaves. IR consists of long wavelengths of low energy, comprising IRA (760–1400 nm), IRB (1400–3000 nm), and IRC (3000 nm–1 mm). IRB and IRC interact only superficially with the skin, where they generate heat, but IRA goes surprisingly deep, down to the hypodermis. Nearly half of the solar rays that reach our skin are in the IR range, of which 30% is IRA (2). Human skin is also exposed to various artificial sources of IR including certain medical devices such as lasers and el ...