CYRIL MESSARAA
Oriflame Research and Development Ltd, Bray, Ireland 

Abstract

It has become evident over the last decades that global cosmetic companies can no longer formulate and market their products exclusively from a global perspective, since there is a growing wealth of evidences with regards to the diversity of skin types. This is especially true when studying the skin ageing process, as illustrated in the present article with skin research investigations performed in two markets, Russia and India. Recent developments in the area of skin imaging, with multi-functional and miniaturised equipment, hold out the prospect of facilitating and expanding the scope of this type of research, as highlighted by additional investigations described in this column.

CHALLENGES OF A GLOBAL COMPANY

Large cosmetic companies from the western world have been faced with the need to expand outside their traditional markets, to sustain their growth. Beyond obvious pigmentary differences, skin from various ethnic backgrounds are dissimilar from a physiological perspective and therefore have distinct needs. One of the best examples is the way skin changes throughout age, with the anti-ageing segment remaining an active focus of the cosmetic industry from a sales perspective (1, 2), despite a recent shift of this category towards “well-ageing” or “slow-ageing” approaches (3). In order to satisfy its customers, it is of paramount importance for cosmetic firms to be aware of the skin specificities of their key markets to design relevant products and additionally raise their scientific credibility to the eye of their customers.

GATHER INSIGHTS CLINICALLY

While hedonic preferences of customers from various regions of the world for cosmetic products are assessed from a sensory perspective (texture, smell and appearance) (4), clinical studies conducted on large panels in fully controlled environm ...