MARK SMITH
The International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association (NATRUE), Belgium

Abstract

Formulators may encounter technical or innovation barriers during the R&D phase related to natural, compared with conventional, formulations, meaning that to make a truly natural cosmetic, functionalities that traditionally have relied more on synthetic ingredients need to be rethought. Natural or organic certification schemes set additional origin, manufacturing and formulation requirements that will influence a formulator’s palette of permitted substances. Based upon the flexibility of a given standard’s criteria, there can be certain product categories that remain innovative but certain sensory components cannot be fully substituted at this stage by natural or derived natural substances without derogations. This article will provide an overview of some of the formulation challenges and considerations when developing natural and organic cosmetics.

Consumers are increasingly interested in the composition of cosmetic products. Perceptions of hazardous substances of synthetic origin coupled with a megatrend shift towards natural alternatives has fuelled interest in natural and organic formulations with increased product naturalness.

Formulators may encounter technical or innovation barriers during the R&D phase related to natural, compared with conventional, formulations, meaning that to make a truly natural cosmetic functionalities that traditionally have relied more on synthetic ingredients such as (semi)-synthetic surfactants for body washes or various silicones for hair care need to be rethought. Furthermore, in case of natural or organic certification schemes there are additional origin, manufacturing and formulation requirements that will influence a formulator’s selection from the available palette of permitted substances.

Nevertheless, based upon the flexibility of the label criteria of a given standard, there can be certain product categories like hair care that remain innovative but certain sensory components, like that provided by silicones in conditioners, canno ...