MARK SMITH
Director General, The International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association (NATRUE)

Abstract

Natural and organic standards establish criteria to classify the acceptability of raw materials used in finished cosmetic products. Certification provides the highest level of reassurance for end users. Nevertheless, finished product certification relies on the ability to evaluate and trace verifiable characteristics of a raw material. Private standards and legislation are not limited to combating greenwashing but can be linked to sustainability considerations, environmental impact and biodiversity protection. Consumers are increasingly interested in the additional ethical value of their products, where environmental impact and sustainability are becoming top concerns. In this article we will look into these factors further highlighting initiatives covering chain of custody best practice and protection of biodiversity.

Under EU law there is no harmonised standard setting criteria for cosmetics in order to support natural or organic product claims. Consequently, voluntary private standards granting labels through certification have offered consumers reassurance over the past ten to fifteen years to protect the sector against the threat of greenwashing. Natural and organic private standards establish criteria to classify the acceptability of raw materials that come from plants and minerals, as well as certain substances produced by living animals. The tolerance of a standard towards use of synthetic or semi-synthetic substances, and the requirements regarding which kind of substances can be used and in which quantities, varies depending on the scheme owner.

Certification provides a high level of reassurance for end users. Nevertheless, in order to be successful, finished product certification relies on the ability to evaluate and trace defined and verifiable characteristics of a raw material. Private standards and legislation are not limited to combating greenwashing but can also be linked to sustainability considerations, environmental impact and protection of biodiversit ...