CYRIL MESSARAA
C’kinmatters, Greece

Abstract

In this compendium, I will take the opportunity to revisit articles published in 2022 in HPC today. Eight articles, from very diverse topics, were selected according to their novelty or relevancy and I will expand on each of them with my own views.

Biotic ingredients with a proven skin anti-ageing effect Sabrina Leoty-Okombi described the efficacy data generated for two different actives, a postbiotic and probiotic respectively. One of the novel aspects is that both actives are generated from the same strain of Lactobacillus crispatus, naturally present on human skin, although its prevalence decreases with ageing in crow’s feet. The other key novel aspect is - of course – the live probiotic active, which is formulated in a dry formulation to remain in a dormant state, and activated upon contact with water. Interestingly, both actives are positioned differently: the postbiotic displayed skin elasticity boosting properties and reduction of melanin content in dark spots, while the key focuses for the probiotic were anti-wrinkles and redensifying effects.

Comment: Transplantation of commensal bacteria has been shown to improve skin disease and the use of probiotics has shown promise in alleviating ageing pathologies. Why is it still in its infancy for cosmetics, one may argue? First of all, there is a lack of a harmonised regulatory framework to allow such ingredients, with even prohibition in some p ...