DOMINIQUE LUTZ*, SEBASTIEN MIKSA, CELINE GUY
*Corresponding author
HelioScreen Labs, 44 rue Léon Blum, 60100 Creil, France

Abstract

Properties of product could be impacted by ageing and minor modification of the formula or the manufacturing process. As there are several performance endpoints – SPF (Sun Protection Factor), UVA-PF (UVA Protection Factor), CW (Critical Wavelength) – the utilization of a single parameter will not ensure the efficacy equivalence between the products. This paper presents data supporting various applications of the recently developed and published in vitro comparison method based on a statistical interpretation of the several efficacy parameters of sunscreen products.

INTRODUCTION

Sun protection provided by cosmetic products has become a public health issue in relation to actual potential risks related to exposure. Although, it had established many years ago an in vivo SPF method (Sun Protection Factor) which has became a worldwide reference. It allow to classify solar products based on the evaluation of a simulated biological response related to mainly UVB radiation exposure, it is now accepted that this indicator is not adapted to determine the overall level of protection. As an example further indexes such as UVA-PF or Critical Wavelength are now required in consideration with the whole UVR spectrum. Worldwide health authorities are often greatly involved in this debate considering the public health issues. They contributed significantly to impose an ethic of tests realization, minimum product performance including UVB and UVA protection and finally greatly encourage the development of in vitro methods (1, 2). These methods are simple, effective and accessible to the development and control of products on the market.

However, beyond the determination of the sun protection by means of in vivo and/or in vitro ...