Abstract

Technological innovation has led to new cosmetic disciplines being developed, for instance the “Cosmetology of light”. This new science gathers and exploits evidence from a number of fields related to research on light to develop new cosmetic formulations, especially for the field of skin ageing perception, where the focus is now on softening wrinkles and other skin anomalies (blur effect) and preventing, concealing and treating skin discolouration blemishes. Photobiology research has shown us that the broad spectrum of solar light, particularly the UV and IR radiation spectrum portions, strongly impacts on the way skin looks like and causes effects that are well described in the literature, such as the potential damage caused by UV/B and UV/A radiation. In the past, this had triggered sun protection research to prevent sun exposure damage to skin, Today, research also addresses new issues, like blue light and the possible interaction it has with skin and the eyes. Light is also exploited in aesthetic medicine (laser, pulsed light and other light-emitting treatments) to counter ageing signs. Cosmetology joining forces with light energy promises to yield innovative beauty care solutions we can all benefit from.

“Cosmetology of light” is a branch of science first applied to cosmetic formulation just a few years ago, and has grown rapidly ever since. This article wishes to provide a better insight into what it means to enhance cosmetic effects through light.

A day that is too bright, or light that directly hits our skin, implacably reveal time passing by and show, as if under a magnifying glass, skin furrowed by fine wrinkles and blemished by age spots, the much-dreaded signs that tell we are getting old or that we have been basking in the sun a lot more than what the skin deserved. In these terms, the way light is refracted by skin has been gaining increased attention. Achieveing a softer, fuzzy look (to make us look younger and beautiful in those pictures and videos that seem to be everyone’s major concern nowadays) requires light to be optimally diffused by skin (blur effect) to conceal pores and imperfections (Figure 1).

Technically, visible light is a portion of the solar waves that reach the earth, between the ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which gives us a tan and keeps our bones healthy (by triggering vitami ...