The sunscreen: a complex evaluation
ANNE CHARPENTIER
Ceo, Skinobs, France
Abstract
Evaluating the performance of sun care is a complex task considering in-silico, in-vitro, in-vivo or hybrid methods. The criteria that have the most influence on the performance of these products include the composition, repartition, photostability, absorbance, and distribution of inorganic and organic filters, as well as the galenic properties of the product (spray, compact powder, oil, cream, etc.). The performance is also impacted by other factors. Harmonizing test methods between and within laboratories ensures the highest quality of sun care. Unifying global reference methods and labelling rules will also ensure that human health (e.g., nano, and endocrine disruptors) and the environment (ecotoxicity testing, coral protection) are respected.
Evaluating the performance of sun protection products is a complex task considering in-silico, in-vitro, in-vivo or hybrid methods. The criteria that have the most influence on the performance of these products include the composition, repartition, photostability, absorbance, and distribution of inorganic and organic filters, as well as the galenic properties of the product (spray, compact powder, oil, cream, etc.). In addition, the performance of sun care products is also impacted by other factors such as wrinkles, skin locations, sweat, hair, application procedures and quantity.
AN EVOLVING PROCESS OF TESTS
To ensure the accuracy and reproducibility of in vitro and in vivo testing, it is essential to implement systematic control testing such as BIPEA inter laboratory comparison tests and audit of the global process such as Suncert diagnostics and FEBEA audit. Additionally, the gap between standardised application and real-life conditions of use should be thoroughly investigated, including anti-salt, anti-sweat, and anti-sand claim substantiation. Among all the available methods, the in-vitro SPF is stro ...
